Jonny Boulton: words

Quicky...

I’m in Vietnam at the moment, and if I hear another horn I’m going to go on a murderous rampage. Still got Cambodia, Thailand (again), Hong Kong and Japan left to do but starting to look forward to waking up in a bed for more then 3 days on the trot and eating some nice cheese. Looking back at my itinerary it’s been pretty full on. Not sure what I’m going to do - defo going to chill for a few weeks, then hopefully get a sex change and become Joanne. The ladyboys around here have given me inspiration. Hope everyone is doing well.

Going well...

Landed a few days ago in Auckland having flown from Santiago, but only after having to circle about the Pacific Ocean for over an hour dumping fuel. An emergancy landing followed due to landing gear problems and finally set off five hrs late on the thirteen hour flight. Nice.

Going to spend a few days updating everything on here as finally got some time to myself. Back to back tours through Central and South Amercia was pretty draining as you have virtually no time to yourself - either on the road, doing activities or monging out to recover from travelling and activities. Got some good stories though, including blowing things up with dynamite, hangliding in Rio, the amazing Easter Island (see pic), jumping off towers and bridges, walking next to lava flows, rafting, diving with sharks, ice climbing at 5000m on a Glacier, sleeping rough in a desert, allsorts, even saved a little baby horse from certain death!!

Plan is to do a small report on each country as I’m up to 750 pages now in my diary and writing that up is going to a rainy day back in manchester occaision. Got over 18,000 pics now as well so plenty to choose from over the next couple of days to put on here. All in all doing really well, spanking the shit out of my money but that’s what it’s there for. Going to be spending the next six weeks or so going around the North and South Islands so will see how that turns out.

Anyway, going to go and speak to people because I can.

Next leg

Packed all my stuff rapidly and got in a taxi. Made it in time though which was a relief. Met up with the new tour group in Quito and it consists of me, three other blokes and 15 women. Should be interesting. Going into the Amazon in the next couple of days in a canoe and staying the night in there - not looking forward to waking up with a spider on my face.

I had such a top time with the other group and was really sad to be leaving. Got to see some amazing things along the way, like I´ve said before my diary is quite up to date but I´ve pretty much given up trying to make regular blogs as I just don´t have time. I´ll try and get the rest of the pics put up asap with a little description hopefully giving enough info about what I´ve been up to. Hopefully when I finish this tour in September and head over to NZ I´ll have more time to spend a day or so catching up...Some of the pics which I like are of the lava flow, which I was stood on watching lava flow out of the ground about 5ft away from me, diving the Blue Hole in Belize which is about 45m down and swam with reef sharks and some of the Mayan Ruins such as Tikal, Copan and Chichen Itza.

Bocas Del Toro

The following day we all went on a boat and snorkelling trip around some of the surrounding islands. The little speedboat we got was pretty rapid. The beaches were better though, really exotic looking with palm trees lining gloden beaches. We stopped off to snorkel with some mad fish before setting off to the beaches. We circled round one of the islands before running the boat aground and getting off for some more snorkelling. We were pretty much the only people there, apart from maybe six others on the whole island. This is where I burnt my back badly as I was in the water for ages looking at coral and fish. Had cream on but didn´t do the business.

That night we got pretty hammered at a nice beach-front bar with little jetty´s at the back you could dangle your legs into the sea off. The next day Pete and I hired some bikes and went for a little ride around the island, stopping off at a bat cave which was dark and smelly. The boat trip to the Costa Rica border the next day was awesome, though amazing waterways and river systems.

Boquete

The town of Boquette is much larger than El Valle, which was tiny really as it only had a few shops and not much else. Boquette had numerous shops and bars dotted down the main street and was dominated by the inactive Volcano Baru in the distance. Only Pete and I did the hike up Baru the day after, which was 27km in total climbing to a height of 3400ft. Totally wasted me by the end.

The following day we went to some natural hot springs next to a nice river which was ace, although the hot springs were just holes in the ground with hot water in, no man-made surroundings really other than a small wall around the holes. Nice sunset in the way back whilst in the back of a pick-up.

El Valle

The hot springs were top - walked up the road a bit with the Sleeping Indian Lady, which is a large hill thing, in the background. The hot springs were good, not what I expected as they were quite dirty looking but the water was nice. We covered ourselves in mud, washed it off and then got into the hot spring. Naturally heated. It was also raining which added to the atmosphere.

The following day, after a few beers and some music, Me, Pete and Pedro walked up the Sleeping Indian Lady, which was a nice climb and nothing too major. Walked past some rock carvings on the way. The views out over the town of El Valle was amazing as it´s set within an inactive volcano crater and surrounded by volcanos. Had a few more beers that night and took some pics of Pedro with the fire things.

In the morning I grabbed some food and then Pete and I walked to where some square trees were supposed to be but could only find round-looking ones. We did manage to get distracted for ages though by some leaf cutter ants crossing a fallen tree over a stream. Stayed there for ages watching them carrying loads of leaves before strolling back.

Panama City

Spent the first night wandering about on my own as there was nobody else from the group in the Hotel yet. Nearly starved as I was really hungry but didn´t trust the dog-looking chicken sold from the street vendors and didn´t know how to ask for anything else. Managed to hunt down some snacks though which was good and had a nice crisp feast, with sweets for afters.

Decided to do the tour of the Panama Canl the following day - was hoping someone else from my tour would be doing it as well who could speak Spanish. Pete, an Aussie guy, was the only other person on the Canal trip and he couldn´t speak Spanish either. The tour lasted about 2hrs and the guide couldn´t speak any English so we just looked at things and made stuff up about what it actually was.

We saw a big bridge that looked quite new, the locks themselves which were top and watched a few large ships passing through. I quite like locks so I enjoyed it. Also drove past a massive US barracks that have now been abandoned due to the military pulling out and handing control of the canal back to Panama. Looked strange and really wanted to investigate it but couldn´t. Got back to the Hotel and monged for a bit as we were due to meet up with everyone off the tour.

The sixty day crew, people that were going all the way to Mexico City consists on Myself, Pete, Andy, Rosie, Hannah and Kelly. We all got on well straight away and would turn out to be a top trip. We went out for some food and had a few chilled beers. That night we went down to the waters edge, looked out of the finance district, with the high-rise offices and wierd lights. I was quite liking Panama City, some bits were dodgy looking and some slightly better but still very different from the UK.

The following day Pete, myself and Andy went for a walk around the old Colonial part of the town, which was really nice although very run down with loads of abandoned buildings. Would normally have investigated but the taxi driver who dropped us off told us not to venture to far off the main street as we might get shot! Good job Mike, my invisible friend, brought his mini-gun with him. I told he wouldn´t need it but brought it anyway.

After wandering about for a bit, looking at stuff and getting told off for walking into random government offices near the the President´s abode, we walked back to freshen up before the evening meal. We managed to get seven into a taxi which I thought was well dodgy and were going to get arrested, until we passed a policeman who just laughed at us.

After a nice feed we then hit the Casinos - the first one I ended up slightly down playing blackjack. You got free drinks though which was top, and drunk loads of Vodka despite having a bottle of red at the meal and a few beers. We moved onto the next one and ordered a bottle of Vodka between us, which lasted about 15mins before hitting the Roulette table. I couldn´t really see at this point but ended up about $50 up, somehow, which more or less paid for my night. Nice one.

The following day we set off to El Valle on a minibus.

Remaining Boulder stuff

Day 23.
Spend that day walking about again. Decided to do the South Boulder Summit which is the one I couldn’t be arsed doing the other day. Slightly higher than Bear Peak at 8,549ft it was pretty tough, although the actual climb wasn’t anywhere near as bad as the Fern Canyon climb. Getting to the base of the climb was much further though, about four miles.

Walking there smelt like the hot dry smell you used to get in Branscombe, which was nice. Some people walked past with a really annoying bell attached to their feet. Sat around for a while until they passed. The terrain got much more challenging towards the top but got a good beast on so made it up there in good time. The summit had wicked views out over the Rockies but you couldn’t see out to the plains as well as Bear Peak. Just me and a few chipmonks at the top. After a while the chipmonks started to trust me loads as I kept leaving little piles of Cashew nuts just infront. Ended up being able to hand feed them! Pretty cute things.

Stopped off at Bear Peak on the way back as you go right past it. As it was a really clear sunny day I thought I’d get some pics from the top of there again. Met a guy from Tanzania who does guided walks in Africa - got his card just incase. Strolled back down Fern Canyon trail - which was just as hard going down as going up, no idea how I managed it the other day. Got a nice feed that night and went to bed.

Day 24
Went hunting for some rocks called the Red Rocks but got a}pissed off with the path as it mainly followed the road. Not here to listen to traffic. Also spent the morning copying pictures from memory cards onto CD’s. Complete pain and took about 3hrs. After giving up on finding the Red Rocks I walked to the summit of Flagstaff Mountain and then on a route called Tenderfoot. It was a really nice and gentle walk through forests - much needed after the last few days punishment.

Went out for some beers in the evening with Nathan and his housemate Josh. It was Josh’s birthday so got pretty minging. At one point though I had to run back to get my passport to prove my age - they wouldn’t accept my photocopy which was annoying. Went to a few bars which were full of young people dancing about. Had a few beers back at their place before I started to go under and needed to leave. Got in at about 04.00.

Day 25
Felt pretty rough from the night before. Leaving tomorrow at 04.30 so packing some stuff away. Went for a nice easy walk to see the Royal Arch. Turned out to be a toughish walk though. Really gutted I’m having to leave in the morning as it’s another amazing day, nice and warm..Was going to do Skunk Canyon Trail and the North Fork Shanahan Trail but sacked them both off as I was feeling rough after last night. Spent a few hours copying some pics over to the Internet then packed my bags ready for the early start in the morning. Gutted to be leaving.

Day 22 - Boulder

(Tuesday 18/04/06)

The trails and the peak itself are just out of range on the map I’ve got so nipped into the rangers cottege and got one. Only after a scare though as the place was shut! Luckily a ranger was just coming to work, pack lunch under his arm, lending me a map and showing me a good route up. Quite a long walk today though as it’s about three miles until I get to the bottom of Fern Canyon, which then leads to the summit. Bring it on.

11.00
At the bottom of Fern Canyon. That didn’t take as long as I thought it would. Got chatting en-route to a couple that are doing the Coast to Coast in June, taking 60 days to do it though. I’ve just passed the Bear Canyon trail - next time I’ll be seeing that I’ll be on my way back, prob in quite a while from now. Fern Trail is about 1.5 miles and zig-zagging like a bastard which means it’s well steep.

11.15
Stopped off for some water - really steep path and the terrain is really rocky. Rocks everywhere. Big rocks. Walking up the Mesa Trail to get here was quite different with open forests and loads of green looking things like grass. This is very different - there are trees, loads infact but they seem to sprout out of the rocks. Hardly any ground vegetation, just pine tree debris like fallen branches, needles and cones. This is how I’d imagine going to some scorcerer’s secret lab or something, seems quite mystical.

11.50
This is a bitch of a climb. Not sure how much further it is to the summit but I hope it’s near. Really, really steep and quite a bit of scrambling . Terrain has changes slightly in that the rocks are slightly smaller but seems to be more trees popping out everywhere. The path, if you could call it that, is really hard to follow - just looks like a load of rocks that have been dumped. Just passed the first bit of snow - it’s quite cold and windy up here, need to keep moving.

12.15
At the summit. It’s massive and can see everywhere. I thought things looked fake the other day at the top of the Flatirons but this is ridiculous, I really feel like I’m on the edge of a 3400ft cliff.

The path up here was a joke - like I said before there was no path it was just rocks towards the top. It made the scramble up Scarfel Pike on the three peaks look tame - Pooly and Gary will know about that. Best way I can compare to something round Marple is, well, actually I can’t.

It looks really cloudy and rainy behind me so think it’s going to get wet in a bit. The views from up here though are stunning. Totally stunning. The ranger gave me a little button thing with is a Geographical Survey thing they put on top of mountains. At 8461ft you’d expect the views to be pretty good. This is an amazing place to be, hardly any trees just massive red coloured rocks.

12.34
Finished taking loads of pictures from the top - it’s really difficult trying to take them of yourself, setting the camera to 10sec delay and then clambering about at the wind-swept rocky summit of a massive mountain. Quite a few clouds rolling in now, random sunny spells but not as sunny as yesterday.

Looks like the rain will hold off for now though. Not sure if this pen is running out of ink or the cold/altitude is affecting it but the writings gone really bitty. Can easily see over Denver now and way, way beyond, with Boulder to my left. Behind me are the Rocky Mountains, again able to see the ski-slopes snaking down from the tops. Moved round to the other side to have a better view but really windy on this side. Stretching for as far as I can see are pine forests with the odd path and road visible.

Green Mountain, where I was yesterday is to my right with an unbelievable array of mountain peaks cascading into the distance. To my left is the other mountain I was going to climb today but decided against it because of the weather. Looks like rain is still threatening in the distance. Going to have a snack then make my way over to Bear Canyon.

13.09
Swapped pens - this seems to be better. Left the summit about 10mins ago, going back a different way along Bear Peak West Ridge, which meets up with Bear Canyon Trail in about 2miles. The skies have cleared up though now which is nice. This is a pretty steep ridge path and is losing altitude quite fast, although it’s easier to follow than the latter stages of Fern Canyon. Much easier. Still loads of rocks everywhere though and still really windy on this side. My hands are freezing.

13.50
Things change pretty quick around here. Dropped over the other side of the ridge and it’s really nice and sheltered. Quite an easy path with hardly any rocks (done well to find this one to sit on) but plently of pine trees about. Can hear the wind in the trees above but the dominating sounds is that of birds squalking away. Only seen a few people on the decent and they were going the other way.

These mountains are amazing although I think I’ve been pretty lucky with the weather so far. I’ve justc taken my fleece off and something I’ve noticed is that I seem to have loads of static somehow. Even in the hostel, if I brush past the wall or use a light switch I get a little electric shock. Even out here in the middle of nowhere my top is making crackling noises. Weird.

Bit of an aside but when I was walking up the Mesa Trail before there were loads of sirens and horns. It sounded like either air raid sirens of a UFO or something. Then there was an announcement over a tannoy system - I couldn’t work out what was being said but reckon most of Boulder must have heard it. Don’t want to leave here but guess there’s plenty of things to investigate on this path yet.

14.35
I’ve just walked past the 3rd severed deer leg I’ve seen on this trail. Interesting. It’s either a mountain lion or a bear that’s done the damage. I’ve got my knife on the ready again though. I read a sign yesterday that suggested you make noise while you’re walking along so I’ve got my portable drum kit attached to my legs, banging out a drum solo. I’ve also attached my whistle to my knife and as I walk it’s making a rattling sound. Really annoying but better than being eaten.

15.13
Back on the Mesa Trail having just passed the junction with Bear Canyon. It was really windy through Bear Canyon, annoyingly, it must channel it all down there or something. Not sure whether to go back via the Royal Arch, prob will have a ganders. Got plenty of water but out of food. Sat on a big red rock next to a stream that’s got a little home-made dam near my feet. I quite like water.

16.09
At the sign now for the Royal Arch. Two mile round trip and looks quite steep so going to give it a miss until later in the week. Going to head back now along the Bluebell Baird Trail - I’ve done a bit of this one but not all of it.

22.06
This pen feels weird. Looking through my hiking maps trying to work out how far I’ve walked. Yesterdays Green Mountain Loops were 5.4 miles, not including the walk to and from the car park at the bottom which is about a mile each way. Good descriptions in the hike guide leaflet about the hills but can’t be arsed writing it all out.

Todays hike to Bear Peak was longer at 12 miles. The actual hike up to Bear Peak along Fern Canyon was 1.5 miles of major uphill carnage. Amazing walk though - even the ranger who lent me the map said if he had a day off he would have done that hike today. Really glad I did it.

I asked before about the airport situation as I fly from Denver at 07.20! Means I need to leave at about 04.30. Luckily they do an airport shuttle service so I don’t have to stay in Denver on Friday night - means I can spend all day Friday doing stuff and walking more. Wicked.

Day 21 - Boulder

(Monday 17/04/06)

10.24
Stopped off quickly to arm myself. Decided to do the Green Mountain Loops instead as it’s a longer walk. Chatting to two girls on the way up to Gragory Canyon - they said to watch out as a 7yr old boy was attacked yesterday by a mountain lion! They said to make yourself big and fight back.I thought, ‘Hmm, ok’ but then bumped into another couple of people on a track called Bluebell Baird who also mentioned to watch out for lions. Going to get my knife out and slash a bit of mountain lion ass. The Bluebell Baird was a nice pine forest-type trail, the smell reminding me of the Hut years in Norwich, lovely smell of pine.

11.23
Not stopped walking since the last entry - path was really steep in some places. Quite rocky with pine trees everywhere. Not sure how high I’ve climbed but I’ve just passed some snow. Still really hot though and I’m sweating loads. Currently sat on a rock with the mountains behind me. No lions yet but I’ve seen a few chipmonks mincing about.

12.09
Been beasting it for ages - hope I’m near the summit of Green Mountain as I’m starting to get hungry but don’t have any food of any kind. The sooner I can get to the top, the sooner I can decend and eat. Loads higher than the Flatirons walk I did yesterday - the tops of which look tiny now. Loads of snow about but still really warm and sunny - not sure how it doesn’t melt. I’m getting semi-concerned though as I’ve only got a little t-shirt and shorts on.

The hike from the last entry has been really tough - terrain is still really rocky, winding paths through pine trees. All the rocks are a reddish-colour and look quite nice. Went past a wicked film-set type looking bit before, rocks and trees with Boulder and Denver in the background.

12.21
At the summit. not going to stay too long though as there’s millions of flies . It’s not quite reached the annoyance levels of Tick City in Scotland but bad enough. It’s 8,144ft up here and you can see all the mountains of the rockies, some with ski runs, really clearly. These flies are doing my head in now so going.

13.22
On my down, walking along the Ranger Path towards Gregory Canyon. Looks like I’ve got loads of walking to do yet - nowhere near any shortcuts or anything. Got chatting to a bloke at the summit called Jason, a sort of hippie-type guy. We overtook each other a few times until he got lost near the top and approached the summit a different way.

Some more chipmonks were hanging about - apparently when they hear voices they think there night be some crumbs knocking about after people have eaten. He also mentioned a good route up to Bear Mountain so might do that tomorrow. Best get going, still loads of walking yet. Just a quicky before I go round this really, really windy corner, I bumped into a couple that missed a shortcut over to Saddle Rock meaning they had to climb to the summit. Harsh mistake for them.

13.50
I can see now why this is called Green Mountain. The hike up was quite steep and rocky with a few trees knocking about. This though is an amazing pine forest, a much easier path - ooo another bee. The path is covered in pine needles and quite soft to walk on. I’m stopped just down from a place I took loads of pics of the summit with nothing but trees to the summit. The only sounds are a clucking type noise from I assume a bird and the wind in the trees above strange as it’s perfectly still here.

13.59
At the junction between the Greenman Trial and the Rangers Trail, which is the right way to be going. Phew. Might need to start rationing water soon. Going to take a minute to listen to the silence whilst looking about.

14.15
Reached the Rangers Lodge - quite a nice building in between two streams. Actually, no it isn’t, it’s next to one stream. On a bridge at the moment over the afore mentioned stream. The sounds of the trickling water sounds quite hypnotic. Still clear blue skies and really hot. There’s nobody around at all, infact I’ve not seen anyone since decending from the summit. I’ve had the entire trail to myself, amazing. If I could eat I would eat here but I’ve not got any food.

I do keep hearing rustling noises in the undergrowth, well paranoid about getting jumped on by a lion. Glad I’ve got my shooter. Such a top place though I don’t want to leave, need to though, I’m starving. No monkey stump concerns to report which is a plus.

14.37
Can see the top of the 1st Flatiron through the trees. The Gregory Canyon wasn’t that far from the rangers hut. About 1.5 miles now back to the carpark - shame, I wish is went on for longer, even though I’m hungry.

15.07
Sat on a rock with what I think is Gregory Canyon behind me. There’s a road up there somewhere as I can hear cars - might be the one I went on yesterday, then again maybe not. Losing quite a bit of altitude now and it’s becoming more rocky. There are wicked boulders everywhere, ranging from car sized to dustbin sized. The rock I’m sat on is about the size of a large cow. Guess that’s why they call this place Boulder. Just reached half way in this diary - 104 A5 pages written already! Going to need loads of pens.

15.25
Founds a nice rock to chill on for a bit. I recognise this bit of path from my semi-wander the other day to suss stuff out - not too far from here so going to sit here for a bit listening to Air.

16.14
Made it back to the Rangers Cottage in good time. Not going to hang about though as I’ve not eaten a thing all day and climbed a big mountain. Boulder is about 5000ft, so still a climb of 3144ft. Defo the highest mountain I’ve climbed. Hope the weather is as good tomorrow as it’s been today - the wind’s picked up a bit and some clouds are blowing over. Hope to do Bear Mountain tomorrow, quite a bit further than todays walk though so going to need some provisions.

I can’t believe how amazing that walk was - I had no idea it would so scenic. I love seeing new nice things and the amount of nice things this track produced today was incredible. I’ve no idea why I’ve always wanted to come to Colorado, just always have. I had no idea where would be a good place to go, and it’s a pretty big state. From that, an unknown desire to visit some part of the US to being somewhere that’s this amazing is freaky. I wish I could have videoed the whole walk. Oh well, I’ll justy have to do it again in reverse.

17.42
Pretty full now as just had a nice tuna sub from a shop down the road, some pretzel type things and some sweets. As predicted I’ve gone tired, might go and have a nap.

22.21
Spentmost of the night copying up diary entries - getting there now though, hopefully get them finished and copied onto the web by the end of my stay here. Still can’t believe todays walk - really windy outside though and had completely clouded over by about 19.00 - not sure I’ll be able to do Bear Peak. Just remebered I need to go through all my pics before I leave and try to get them all onto a CD. More time consuming activities getting in the way of walking. Harsh. Going to have a shower then get in bed.